Installing drywall involves nailing or screwing sheets or panels of drywall, which is typically manufactured as either 4′ by 8′ or 5′ by 12′ sheets, adjacent to one another to studs along a wall. The factory edges of such drywall panels are beveled, typically for about 2-3 inches or so along the edge, so that drywall “mud” may be spread by a trowel into the beveled regions between two mounted panels, and drywall tape pressed into the mud so as to contiguously join the two panels. Such a joint may be 4″ to 6″ or so in width. A second coat of mud is then troweled over the tape, and after the mud dries, the mud-covered interface between the two panels is sanded smooth and flush so that there is no discernable break between the two panels. Where two panels meet at a corner of a room, or where a ceiling drywall panel meets a wall panel, a 90 degree corner joint is formed. Here, drywall tape is typically scored or otherwise creased longitudinally down the middle thereof so that it may be easily longitudinally bent 90 degrees and pressed into drywall mud forming a corner. As with other drywall joints, the mud of the corner joints must be sanded after it dries in order to present a smooth, aesthetically pleasing appearance of the corners. As noted, the beveled region of drywall filled with drywall mud may extend 2″-3″ or so outward from the corner.
While sanding drywall mud of planar wall joints of drywall is relatively easy, sanding drywall mud in corners is relatively difficult. Dried drywall mud is relatively soft and easy to damage, which requires additional mud to be troweled into the damaged areas, and a wait time of typically 24 hours for the repair mud to dry. Such damage typically occurs when an edge of sandpaper, a sandpaper holder or sandpaper sponge contacts the adjacent mud joint of a corner while the sandpaper, sandpaper tool or sponge is being rubbed on the opposite mud joint corner, developing a groove or gouge in the wall of the corner not being sanded.
In order to address this problem, one potential solution is advanced by U.S. Pat. No. 6,325,708, to Miles, which teaches a V-shape plate that holds or supports sanding pads or sheets thereon. The V-shaped plates holding the sandpaper elements have sides disposed at 90 degrees to each other. One problem with this arrangement is that the angle of the two flat plates seldom accurately matches the angle of drywall corners, which are rarely accurately configured exactly 90 degrees to each other. Here, where one side of a corner is correctly sanded, the other side will be either excessively sanded or insufficiently sanded. As such, the device of Miles inadequately addresses the problem of sanding drywall corners.
Another proposed solution is drywall sanding sponge configured generally in square or rectangular blocks wherein edges thereof are beveled or tapered slightly so that a drywall technician may carefully sand by hand one side of the corner, and then sand by hand the other side of the corner. However, this is a laborious, tedious and time-consuming process, and is subject to damaging the drywall mud of a corner portion of a wall adjacent the wall joint being sanded. In addition, such a hand sanding process is very abrasive to skin of a drywall technician; it not being uncommon for hands of such an individual to be blistered and bleeding at the end of a day's work. Also, as noted, dried drywall mud is so soft that even a single sanding stroke where the edge of the sanding medium contacts the adjacent wall may cause a groove or gouge in the mud of the adjacent wall, which then requires repair. Also, sandpaper holders of the prior art may be bumped against the adjacent wall, creating a gouge in the drywall mud that requires repair.
In view of the foregoing, it is apparent that a need exists for a drywall sanding tool for sanding drywall mud in corners that is easy to use, that will not damage adjacent walls and is fast and efficient in its operation.